Simple Footsies

When weather grows warmer I get more into smaller, instant-gratification pieces of knitting, hence - footsies.

All shaping clearly visible: 2x2 rib cuff, short row heel, gusset and toe decreases.

These are really quick, I usually have a pair ready in two to three days. They are also extremely comfy and beside wearing them as socks I often wear them as apartment slippers. I have gone and written detailed row-by row instructions for most parts but if you are more familiar with sock making you will see that there is nothing new here and no need to read the whole thing.

Needles: I used 4 steel DPNs size 2 mm
Yarn: sock weight yarn, any leftovers would do nicely, as well as re-appropriating yarns after them being to frog pond and back into a ball. I had cardigan that wasn’t getting any “wear time” and now I have a lot of red socks J
Size: I wear shoes size 38-39 and these fit snugly (there will be some sizing suggestions)
Type: top-down

The cuff:

Using long tail cast on 70 stitches. Work preparation row by knitting all stitches and dividing total number of stitches to 3 needles so that first 30 stitches are on first needle, 20 are on second and 20 on third. First 30 stitches will be upper part of foot and remaining 40 stitches (20+20) will be the sole. Work 1x1rib for 15-20 rows, as this “cuff length” will be mostly aesthetic choice. Footsies pictured here have 20 1x1 rib rows and my rib is quite firm and elastic. If yours is less elastic consider using half a size smaller needle - it will fit snuglier to your ankle.

After making desired number of rib rows I usually differently divide the stitches so it will be more pleasant to work the heel; I knit first 30 stitches (upper foot), then knit 20 stitches (half a sole) and then use the free needle to transfer 15 stitches from the first needle onto it (that way upper foot is divided to 30=15+15) and then continue knitting the sole that being the first row of a short-row heel. During turning the heel you work knitting and purling by turning the work and wrapping stitches in the process until you are left with 12 middle stitches. This 12 stitches are midpoint of your heel and after that you go back to picking up end stitches and their wraps to return to 40 stitches you begun with.

After purling the last row of heel and turning back to right side of sock you knit 20 stitches, reunite 15 stitches of upper foot back with other 15 to free the needle (if you used my preferred way of dividing stitches), then use that needle to knit second 19 stitches of sole. Now that you’re left with 20^th stitch of second sole part lift this stitch purl-wise, without knitting it, to right-hand needle. Then use free needle to lift one stitch from next needle (upper foot part) but 1 row below the one you are knitting now. You will see which stitch will be best to close the gap because when you take this and the paused twentieth stitch together to be k2tog the join will be nice and tight. So knit this one and begin next row. Knit 29 upper foot stitches and do with thirtieth stitch same you did with twentieth from needle before; just pause it by transferring it purl-wise to right-hand needle, find stitch one row below on sole side to lift and then knit paused and this lifted stitch reverse knit them together to close the gap. All that is left now is continue knitting in the round to form the foot.

Gusset decrease:

Knit 6 rounds and in 7^th round decrease by knitting 30 from first needle, knit 1 from sole, k2tog, knit 17 to end of first sole needle, knit 17 from second sole needle, ssk, knit 1. Here you are basically decreasing total of 2 stitches (1left and 1 right) in sole part, 1 stitch inward from the ends. This is how you will decrease every 7^th row 4 more times, until you have same number of upper foot and sole stitches (30+30).

Knit six rows.

Second decrease row (row 14 from the heel): knit 30 from first needle, knit 1 from sole, k2tog, knit 16 to end of first sole needle, knit 16 from second sole needle, ssk, knit 1.

Knit six rows.

Third decrease row (row 21 from the heel): knit 30 from first needle, knit 1 from sole, k2tog, knit 15 to end of first sole needle, knit 15 from second sole needle, ssk, knit 1.

Knit six rows.

Fourth decrease row (row 28 from the heel): knit 30 from first needle, knit 1 from sole, k2tog, knit 14 to end of first sole needle, knit 14 from second sole needle, ssk, knit 1.

Knit six rows.

Fifth decrease row (row 35 from the heel): knit 30 from first needle, knit 1 from sole, k2tog, knit 13 to end of first sole needle, knit 13 from second sole needle, ssk, knit 1.

By this time you have made 5x7=35 rows (if you counted correctly, which isn’t always easy :D) and  you need to keep working round and round for about 30 more rows what will lead you to beginning of toe decrease. I like to try on my sock now and then to see how am I coming along and if gauge really provides for desired length so please feel free to add or subtract a few rows as you see fit. If you are knitting a sock for somebody else you need at least length of his/her foot if not 1:1 sketch of foot or sock blockers in desired size so you can check for size.

Toe decrease:

To make neat and decorative  toes use the same trick of making decreases one stitch inward from ends of row. This way there will always be two knit stitches between decreases on sides of your toes. You decrease 4x1 stitch in each decrease row and decrease rows will be every other row.

First decrease row: k1, k2tog, knit 24, ssk, k1 on first needle (upper foot) and the same for sole. If your sole is still equally divided on 2 needles this will be k1, k2tog, k12 for first needle and k12, ssk, k1 for second needle.

Knit one row.

Second decrease row: : k1, k2tog, knit 22, ssk, k1 on first needle (upper foot) and the same for sole. If your sole is still equally divided on 2 needles this will be k1, k2tog, k11 for first needle and k11, ssk, k1 for second needle.

Knit one row:

Third decrease row: : k1, k2tog, knit 20, ssk, k1 on first needle (upper foot) and the same for sole. If your sole is still equally divided on 2 needles this will be k1, k2tog, k10 for first needle and k10, ssk, k1 for second needle.

Knit one row.

Fourth decrease row: : k1, k2tog, knit 18, ssk, k1 on first needle (upper foot) and the same for sole. If your sole is still equally divided on 2 needles this will be k1, k2tog, k9 for first needle and k9, ssk, k1 for second needle.

Knit one row:

Fifth decrease row: : k1, k2tog, knit 16, ssk, k1 on first needle (upper foot) and the same for sole. If your sole is still equally divided on 2 needles this will be k1, k2tog, k8 for first needle and k8, ssk, k1 for second needle.

Knit one row:

Sixth decrease row: : k1, k2tog, knit 14, ssk, k1 on first needle (upper foot) and the same for sole. If your sole is still equally divided on 2 needles this will be k1, k2tog, k7 for first needle and k7, ssk, k1 for second needle.

Knit one row:

Seventh decrease row: : k1, k2tog, knit 12, ssk, k1 on first needle (upper foot) and the same for sole. If your sole is still equally divided on 2 needles this will be k1, k2tog, k6 for first needle and k6, ssk, k1 for second needle.

Knit one row:

Eighth decrease row: : k1, k2tog, knit 10, ssk, k1 on first needle (upper foot) and the same for sole. If your sole is still equally divided on 2 needles this will be k1, k2tog, k5 for first needle and k5, ssk, k1 for second needle.

Knit one row:

Ninth decrease row: : k1, k2tog, knit 8, ssk, k1 on first needle (upper foot) and the same for sole. If your sole is still equally divided on 2 needles this will be k1, k2tog, k4 for first needle and k4, ssk, k1 for second needle.

Now you have 12 stitches on first needle and 12 stitches for sole that you should put on one needle, if not already done. Knit one last row of 12+12 stitches. These you will now join with Kitchener stitch so you will have nice, seamless toe. If you have never worked Kitchener stitch this is excellent project to try it because there are only 12 “columns” to join and since this is the last thing between you and your lovely new footsie you will be extra motivated.

Additionally, after you are done kitchenering, if you are not satisfied with density (invisibility) of this row you can make some extra tightening from the wrong (purl) side before you weave in the end. Row being so small gives you plenty of room to improve your kitchenering and, if you will not be pleased with your work even then, this part is usually hidden in a shoe so you won’t be constantly reminded of this grief :D

And for the end, some sizing suggestions.

Mechanics of the sock making is always the same. For top down sock this means that there will always be cuff, heel, gusset and toes. You can make size adjustments by casting on smaller number of stitches but let it be proportionally smaller for upper foot and sole. So, for instance, for slightly smaller foot you can cast:

 28(upper foot)+38(sole part)=total  or 66 stitches 

26+36= 62 stitches

24+34=58 stitches

or slightly bigger:

32 (upper foot) +42 (sole part) =74 stitches

34+44=78 stitches

... but work with them as described - decreasing for heel until 12 middle stitches remain, have 5 gusset decreases and decrease toes until 12(x2) stitches remain.

For smaller feet you can make gusset decreases every 6th or fifth row and make less rows before starting the toes, and for bigger feet make decreases every 8th or 9th row and/or make more rows before starting the toes.

I always enjoy seeing things other people made while using my patterns so please do share :)

Chair Socks - Basic Pattern

When I just moved in 2012. I wrote how crafting is home and I've shown that I'm knitting my lovely beechwood chair some socks. These are some good socks and they have surely worked hard for almost two years protecting my floors from scratching and my ears from noise and now came a time for them to be replaced.

So I have knit a new set of socks:

This is for size referece when not streched on a chair leg. Plus it looks so weird, like backward designed glove :D

As many people still arrive to this blog following a search for "chair socks" I decided to put my simple pattern here.

CHAIR SOCKS
(or should I say "furniture socks" as you can put this on tables, cupboards and couches with legs)

Needles: 4 steel DPNs size 2 mm
Yarn: leftovers from old knitted vest, frogged recently for recycling
Size: it depends on your gauge and choice of warn/needles (these fit snugly on legs with 5 cm diameter)
Type: simple, bottom-up

Cast on 9 following disappearing loop method (It would be 8 for pattern but since disappearing loop calls for odd number it is one more, hence 9, tug gently on the tail end to check if everything works and divide stitches onto 3 dpns, I prefer 2+2+4 (here 2+2+5 because of 9th stitch). Work in rounds.
1st row: knit
2nd row: kbf stitches 1-7, knit stitch 8 and 9 - this should give you 4+4+8 stitches total
3rd row: knit
4th row: knit
5th row: *kfb 1, k1* repeat to end of row - this should give you 6+6+12 stitches total
6th row: knit
rows 7-37: 1x1 rib (*k1, p1* all around)
Bind off loosely, but not  too lose so the sock will "hug" the leg nicely. I prefer to bind of simply, with purl stitches (just like following this tutorial, only purl-wise) because I like how purl bumps look as border.

Finish by weaving in firmly and invisibly all ends on the wrong side and give your chairs a makeover.

Obviously, you need to make as many socks as your chair/couch/table has legs (so it will not wobble) but when you finish up the first one try it on to make sure it fits. If it is too big try making one with less stitches (just remember there has to be even number to stay in pattern 1x1 rib) or adding up more stitches in 5th row (so all adding up will be done on the bottom, before sock needs to circle the circumference of the leg.

If you like, you can add some color by making it stripey, but if you decide on some small-scale fair isle take care to make it stretchy enough to fit the leg.

Enjoy!

Make Your Own Om Nom

My daughter started playing “Cut the Rope” game a while back and she immediately fell in love with that cute Om Nom character. Of course she also wished for a “real one” and came to me with request to make her a knitted companion.

She said: “I KNOW you can do it.” so matter-of-factly and with a wide genuine smile that I could not refuse this request even if I weren’t enjoying the challenges she puts before me.

This toy is a small knitted plushie, filled with polyester fiber (pillow filling) and with details made from felt cloth, cotton thread and buttons. Mine is about 12cm in diameter, size of a larger apple. It is worked on a small set of dpns 2mm or smaller. Choose needle size to produce firm fabric with your chosen yarn. As it is often said to “take time to save time” try your hand/needles/yarn on a small swatch so that toy making doesn’t end in tears when you will be trying to fill too loose package.

So, to make one of your own prepare:

-          One skein of yarn (Om Nom is green in the game but it could be beautiful in any other color also. Depending on a yarn you chose you could have plenty left over as it only takes about 20 g to make one)

-          Set of 5 double pointed needless appropriate for your chosen yarn (mine were 2 mm for yarn Jelka - fingering 4ply, 200 m in 50 g)

-          2-3 handfuls of polyester pillow filling

-          2 small black shank buttons for pupils of the eyes

-          White and black felt cloth (I ran out of white so we used light blue)

          Darning needle

-          Small sewing needle

-          Cotton thread in felt cloth colors

 BODY

Shaping of the ball that makes the body is like shaping the top of top-down hat like beret/tam that has 8 “slices” at sides of which you do all of your increasing and decreasing.

Using method of disappearing loop cast on 9 stitches (as the method does not allow for even number of stitches).

Preparatory row: divide stitches to 4 needles (2+2+2+3), mark beginning of round if you want (yarn tail will be hanging out of disappearing loop so maybe you can orient by this alone). You will now be working in the round, always with right side work facing you. Try to pull the tail to make sure it can be tightened.

1^st row:  knit 2+knit 2+ knit2 and knit 3

2^nd row: kfb all but the last 2 stitches, just knit them (there should be 4 stitches on each of 4 dpns)

3^rd row: knit

4^th row: kfb all stitches (doubling the stitches, there should be 8 stitches on each needle which equals 2 “slices” of 4 stitches each - from this point onward if you think in terms of “slices” it will be easier for you to visualize where to increase and decrease)

5^th row: knit

6^th row: *kfb, knit 2, kfb* two times per needle (2 slices of 6 stitches each or 12 stitches total per needle)

7^th  row: knit

8^th row: knit

9^th row: *kfb, knit 4, kfb* two times per needle (2 slices of 8 stitches each or 16 stitches total per needle)

10^th row: knit

11^th row: knit

12^th row: widening for “chest” and “back” of the toy will make Om Nom more balanced when sewing on feet so counting from the beginning of the round on 1^st and 3^rd needle kfb seventh and ninth stitch (total 18 stitches), knit all stitches on 2^nd and 4^th needle (stays 16 stitches)

13^th row: knit

14^th row: counting from the beginning of the round on 1^st and 3^rd needle kfb seventh and eleventh stitch (total 20 stitches), knit all stitches on 2^nd and 4^th needle (stays 16 stitches)

17^th to 34^th row: knit

35^th row: counting from the beginning of the round on 1^st and 3^rd needle decrease ssk 7^th and 8^th stitch and k2tog stitch 12 and 13 (total 18 stitches), knit all stitches on 2^nd and 4^th needle (stays 16 stitches)

36^th row: knit

37^th row: knit

38^th row: counting from the beginning of the round on 1^st and 3^rd needle decrease ssk  7^th and 8^th stitch and k2tog stitch 10 and 11 (total 16 stitches), knit all stitches on 2^nd and 4^th needle (stays 16 stitches)

39^th row: knit

40^th row: knit

41^st row: decrease at the ends of “slices” so *ssk, knit 4, k2tog* 2 times per needle (slices of 6 stitches or total 12 per needle)

42th row: knit

43th row: *ssk, knit 2, k2tog* 2 times per needle (slices of 4 stitches or total of 8 per needle)

44^th row: knit - here is when you fill the body with pillow filling. Fill quite packed as you will work few more rows afterward to close out the body so there will be enough filling for whole body.

45^th row: *ssk, k2tog* 2 times per needle (total 4 stitches per needle)

46^th row: *ssk, k2tog* once per needle (as there are no more stitches left and with this decrease it leaves 2 stitches on each of four needles)

47^th row: k2tog each needle stitches, collecting them to one needle only (4 stitches total)

48^th to 52^nd row: knit 5 rows of i-cord with remaining 4 stitches

53^rd row: kfb all stitches, dividing them to 4 needles (2 stitches on each needle)

54^th row: knit

55^th row: kfb all stitches (4 stitches on each needle)

56^th to 60^th row: knit

61^st row: *ssk, k2tog* all around (2 stitches on each needle)

62^nd row: knit

Fill the small tentacle on Om Nom’s head and cut approx. 20 cm tail of yarn. Darn needle with the end of yarn and pull it through all remaining stitches, closing it like the disappearing ring in the beginning (cast on). Weave the end firmly and invisibly into the tentacle.

LEGS (make 4)

Cast on 8 stitches using Judy’s Magic Cast On - 4 stitches on each needle, like you are casting on for a sock.

Knit one row.

In second row increase kfb on beginning and end of each needle (6 stitches per needle, 12 total)

Knit one row.

Increase kfb on beginning and end of each needle (8 stitches per needle, 16 total).

Knit around dividing stitches on 4 needles, 4 stitches each, mark beginning of round if needed.

Knit 4 more rounds.

Cast off not too loosely, cut approx. 20 cm tail. 

FELT PARTS

Cut out eye whites and 4 teeth from light felt.

Cut out thin line for the mouth from black felt.

So, now you have all your parts for making Om Nom...

... and when you arrange them like this you can almost see how he will look like.

FINAL ASSEMBLY

Make sure to position body correctly in regards with supposed “chest” and “back” (increases and decreases on 1^st and 3^rd needle) before you begin attaching feet. Using the tail from cast off attach feet to the body, filling it with polyester fiber when you come to last 3-4 stitches and close all holes and weave in ends neatly.  

Using black cotton thread sew shank buttons to the light felt making the pupils for the eyes.

Using light cotton thread sew eyes to the body.

With black thread sew mouth to make Om Nom smile.

With light thread sew teeth below the black line of mouth spacing them evenly apart so he looks cute and hungry.

Weave any remaining ends and go fetch him some candy. All done. 

You can even take him to work with you to show off :)

Basic Socks

Since last bout of crazy gift knitting around Christmas ended I was in a bit of a standstill with new projects. I did make some hats, some swatches did unexpectedly turn into scarves and baby clothes, some yoga-socks were cranked out and sent off but I felt kinda: "Meh", "Knitting-schmitting,... meh."

Until last week when I had an overwhelming urge to treat myself with "real socks", immediately!

So first one was made after a bit of tinkering with technique.

Needles: 4 steel DPNs size 2 mm
Yarn: discontinued Pazinka sock weight yarn, leftovers from yarn cone
Size: I wear shoes size 38-39 and these fit snugly
Type: simple, toe-up

Using Judy's Magic Cast-on cast on 10 stiches to each needle (20 total) and work in rounds adding 4 stitches per row at the ends every second row (I used kfb but m1 is ok) until total of 52 stitches is reached. Divide stitches on 3 needles so that sole 26 stitches are on first needle and upper-foot 26 stitches are divided 13-13 on two remaining neeedles.

Knit in rounds for about 42 rows (more for longer foot) and then add for arch 2 stitches (m1) every 7th row 5 times on lateral ends of upper-foot - that means that first time adding you will make sole 26 st., knit one from upper foot and m1 and knit to the end of the needle (having 14 total on that needle), knit 12, m1, knit 1 (having 14 total on this needle also). After kniting 6 more rows repeat addition row (ending with 26+15+15 stitches) and do this until you have 26+18+18 st on needles. Knit 6 more rows (or more for longer foot) and work short-row heel and after that join to work in the round again taking care not to leave gapping holes between sole and arch stitches. I usually pick one stitch from row below last at the place where sole and arch join (not making one new stitch, just picking the one already made in row below) and knit this one with adjacent one on sole part of the sock - k2tog on the right side and SSK on left side.

Now you're left with 26+18+18=62 stitches. Work in the round until prefered sock height is reached and then decrease 2 (62-2=60 stitches) so you can work 2x2 rib next 20 or so rows.

End with Jeny's surprisingly stretchy bind-off.

I fell so absolutely in love with this sock when I finished it I immediately casted on for second sock and two days later I'm proudly sporting this pair through a spring morning.

 Look at these lovely heels. <3 enamored <3

Winter Moss Set

During last couple of weeks I knitted like crazy in every waking moment because there were deadlines to be met and Gift season waits for no man but I was also very inspired so I designed and made this lovely set.

First I made small cowl as I needed one at once, and then I progressed along with some short fingerless gloves.

And the gloves were so satisfying to knit I made them in a day...

... and then I had so much yarn left over I opted to make a slouchy hat to go with.

I am so pleased with the results I even wrote the directions down and I'm going to format them and upload them so you could make one for yourself.

Crafting is home

I am knitting socks for my lovely beechwood 4-legged stool.

What?

I don't like the noise it makes when I move it around oak flooring and I think the neighbours will appreciate it being quieter, too.

DIY rocks.

I love tinkering with ideas, designing, searching for appropriate materials and ways to do stuff I'd like done, mistakes, failures, successes, new knowledge and stuff made. To this purpose I sew, knit, crochet, tape, glue, cut, attach, bead, take apart and screw together.

I love having time and space to do more of it.


            x                x                x

This is fourth post in the series "What is home?". Read posts one, two  and three below.

Update (27Feb2014): I have posted this chair sock pattern here, and also on ravelry.

Snowdrops, finally

I realize I'm too quiet last couple of days, but I'm hoping to catch up once life changes I'm going through right now tide over.

I'm knitting Gemini.

I'm enjoying 20 Celsius in Zagreb.

Air is sweet with life and sun warm and rewarding. There is fondness and pride and truth revealed in words and deeds around me.

MOCP Day 29 - Your Latest FO

My latest FO is this cabled cotton sock. I got it on my foot for this picture but it will be worn by someone with foot 1 size smaller than mine and in dire need of looslely cast off socks.

Bottom-up, 2x12 stitches cast using Judy's magic cast-on, grown to 56 alltogether and worked in small mock-cables and one simple cable for the middle of front. 2 stitches added for gusset on each side of front panel so the pattern can be worked for back of the leg also (58 alltogether on leg part). Short row heel.

2x2 rib on the top of the sock cast off very loosely, adding one extra loop on the end each knit side rib.

Kinda looks like ruffles on top. I like that.

I think I'll make myself a pair after I finish beautiful Filigree Hat from this week's CEY Webletter.

And with this A Month of Craft Photos is over. Go to this Flickr pool and see all the treasures that have risen from this wonderful idea.

MOCP Day 28 - Simplicity

I made this saucery French hat when I was twelve.

I was in sixth grade of elementary school then and I made it in a day, trying to teach myself to follow written knitting instructions. Cast on loop was a bit too big, but all in all it is a really nice hat; warm, lovely shaped, festive like a pinwheel.

My daughter loves it.

She wears it to school on days she has "special hairstyle". This is the only hat that keeps her warm and covers her head still allowing for hairpins and ponnytails to get to school intact.

MOCP Day 25 - When You Craft

I work nine to five, 25 km from home.

I am divorced single parent to first-grader who brings homework every day.

I craft when I have time; at night, after work, after homework check, after workout session and after everything is prepared for school, bed made and tomorrow's lunch planned I sit in bed and talk with my offspringess about a movie or anime episode we are currently watching and I craft.

During my lunch-break I sometimes have time to search for a project or information to include into project I already have in my mind. In my mind, I craft all the time, because I have so little time to actually work on things I have to have good head-start.

On weekends I sometimes carry my knitting with me to social gatherings but there are not many people who tolerate knitting on social gatherings.

MOCP Day 24 - Up Close

Intarsia braid on long cardigan coat.

I made this coat while I stayed at home with my daughter during her first year.

It never ceases to amaze me how well I made the yarn twists and how tidy it looks.

When I was first designing the coat I wanted a detail that would stand out, one that would add fire - almost aggression - to the coat and I thought of something like dragon spine ridges.

It came out as red braid in the middle of back panel and it really looks like dragon spine ridges.

It is a beautiful coat and when I wear it a lot of people ask about it and admire it. But they do so cautiously. Speaking to their friends and commenting to themselves, not asking me about it. When I wear it only people that know me well stop me in the hallway to have a chat.

Seems some things are quite easy to foresee.

MOCP Day 22 - Contrasts

This is my favorite scarf.

I crocheted it about 2 years ago using two laceweight yarns I bought on cones, for rediculosly low price of 40kn/kg (7$ per kg).

Maroon (#800000) and Silver (#C0C0C0) colored yarn, different by feel and hazyness but both very nice to touch and all items I made from them wash and keep shape famously. I already made silver only dress, maroon only pullover and vest and using both yarns I made this scarf changing color every two rows and vest/sweater holding both yarns together - and there is still more yarn on both cones.

But in the shop... they did not feel like a pair.

They never seeemed nor felt like they should be put together and they did not leave an impression of yarns destined to forge their path as one.


Maroon is always clear and well defined and silver hazy, on verge of pilling. Maroon too firm, almost weed-like to the touch, like there was grass left in the wild wool before spinning and Silver squishy, soft, flimsy like it would just fall apart as spiderweb does when someone goes through it.

Not something you would imagine paired.

Until they were put together, and tried, and made to work.

And they make beautiful, durable things.

MOCP Day 20 - Finishing

Fresh from the needles: bottom-up socks.

I have just beggining and end thread to weave in.

These are simple warm and lacy socks for my lovely aunt that has trouble with finding right socks for her acutely arthritic feet. They will be a surprise. I hope she likes them.

There's one more thing there in the picture: young, yellow, eagerly awaited spring sunrise sun. It was warm enough for me to go take picture on my balcony this morning and my heart sang with the birds from a nearby forrest patch. There was smell of melting frost and nature's hope to begin opening pregnant buds of local trees and shrubs in the air.

This weekend I saw snowdrops. Cats have gone love-hunting. All is well.

MOCP Day 18 - Craft Books

Some of my craft books.

On the top of the pile here are my newest books - gifts to myself from a source I just recently discovered: Book Depository - online bookstore with free shipping anywhere in the world (including Croatia!!!) They are truly great: organized in a simple, intuitive manner, accept paypal, send information promptly but do not spam, ship books extremely quick and pack it well so it arrives safely. They have even sent me a small gift - beautiful bookmark with cooking conversions.


On the bottom of the pile there is one borrowed book "Folk jewelry of Croatia" and some knitting books my family owns for 30-something years. They are very good and have served as a portal from basic skill my nana tought me to skill refinement efforts I had to propel by myself and in which I still persist.

Perculiary absent crochet books are visiting at my aunt's. They will be back shortly when she returns from mineral springs hospital where she is recovering from arthritis.

MOCP Day 17 - Last FO You Used

100% wollen Ringwood Gloves.

We had lots of snow last few days so I had a chance to finally use my woolen Ringwoods.

Usually they are too warm and I don't like having my fingers completely covered so I wear my other pair of gloves with short fingers but now they were perfect. I shoveled snow, cleaned my car, dried them on radiator in my room - and they look and feel great! And to think they were free pattern!

Internet is such a wonderful tool for improving oneself.

See other Month of Craft Photos in this flickr pool.

MOCP Day 15 - A New Skill

Newest skill I acquired seems to be grafting.

Sometime during last year fall I made a pile of Ysolda's wonderful Garter Stitch Mitts so I got a chance to work on my short row and grafting techniques.

I dabbled with grafting before but it didn't quite set in as I feel it now. Now I have confidence to use it not only on small, invisible places, but also on bigger pieces and in plain sight. I like how it feels like my skill is growing in considerable "jumps" now, all because I give it time and effort - so later I can use all that skill with as little time and effort as possible and with results showing all the work that went into building the skill.

It is pure joy to see foreseeable mechanics at work.

Investment returning as profit. Wonderful.

MOCP Day 14 - Where I Craft

This is my crafting nook.

As I have just one room I try my best to fit everything in it.

Books, knitting and crocheting doohickeys and stash, computers, jewelry supplies, sewing stuff, felting stuff, writing and drawing stuff, small handyman repair stuff. I designed cupboards, shelves and closets to cater to my needs. I put stuff into hobby boxes.

I love being ready to work on anything that I happen to need right away. That is why I call this my lair.

It takes a bit of planning ahead but it pays off nicely. I'm almost always ready for last-minute gift making, urgent repairs on styling, unique accessories. That pleases me immensly.

It creates a sense of security I do not have in other areas of my life.