Simple Footsies

When weather grows warmer I get more into smaller, instant-gratification pieces of knitting, hence - footsies.

All shaping clearly visible: 2x2 rib cuff, short row heel, gusset and toe decreases.

These are really quick, I usually have a pair ready in two to three days. They are also extremely comfy and beside wearing them as socks I often wear them as apartment slippers. I have gone and written detailed row-by row instructions for most parts but if you are more familiar with sock making you will see that there is nothing new here and no need to read the whole thing.

Needles: I used 4 steel DPNs size 2 mm
Yarn: sock weight yarn, any leftovers would do nicely, as well as re-appropriating yarns after them being to frog pond and back into a ball. I had cardigan that wasn’t getting any “wear time” and now I have a lot of red socks J
Size: I wear shoes size 38-39 and these fit snugly (there will be some sizing suggestions)
Type: top-down

The cuff:

Using long tail cast on 70 stitches. Work preparation row by knitting all stitches and dividing total number of stitches to 3 needles so that first 30 stitches are on first needle, 20 are on second and 20 on third. First 30 stitches will be upper part of foot and remaining 40 stitches (20+20) will be the sole. Work 1x1rib for 15-20 rows, as this “cuff length” will be mostly aesthetic choice. Footsies pictured here have 20 1x1 rib rows and my rib is quite firm and elastic. If yours is less elastic consider using half a size smaller needle - it will fit snuglier to your ankle.

After making desired number of rib rows I usually differently divide the stitches so it will be more pleasant to work the heel; I knit first 30 stitches (upper foot), then knit 20 stitches (half a sole) and then use the free needle to transfer 15 stitches from the first needle onto it (that way upper foot is divided to 30=15+15) and then continue knitting the sole that being the first row of a short-row heel. During turning the heel you work knitting and purling by turning the work and wrapping stitches in the process until you are left with 12 middle stitches. This 12 stitches are midpoint of your heel and after that you go back to picking up end stitches and their wraps to return to 40 stitches you begun with.

After purling the last row of heel and turning back to right side of sock you knit 20 stitches, reunite 15 stitches of upper foot back with other 15 to free the needle (if you used my preferred way of dividing stitches), then use that needle to knit second 19 stitches of sole. Now that you’re left with 20^th stitch of second sole part lift this stitch purl-wise, without knitting it, to right-hand needle. Then use free needle to lift one stitch from next needle (upper foot part) but 1 row below the one you are knitting now. You will see which stitch will be best to close the gap because when you take this and the paused twentieth stitch together to be k2tog the join will be nice and tight. So knit this one and begin next row. Knit 29 upper foot stitches and do with thirtieth stitch same you did with twentieth from needle before; just pause it by transferring it purl-wise to right-hand needle, find stitch one row below on sole side to lift and then knit paused and this lifted stitch reverse knit them together to close the gap. All that is left now is continue knitting in the round to form the foot.

Gusset decrease:

Knit 6 rounds and in 7^th round decrease by knitting 30 from first needle, knit 1 from sole, k2tog, knit 17 to end of first sole needle, knit 17 from second sole needle, ssk, knit 1. Here you are basically decreasing total of 2 stitches (1left and 1 right) in sole part, 1 stitch inward from the ends. This is how you will decrease every 7^th row 4 more times, until you have same number of upper foot and sole stitches (30+30).

Knit six rows.

Second decrease row (row 14 from the heel): knit 30 from first needle, knit 1 from sole, k2tog, knit 16 to end of first sole needle, knit 16 from second sole needle, ssk, knit 1.

Knit six rows.

Third decrease row (row 21 from the heel): knit 30 from first needle, knit 1 from sole, k2tog, knit 15 to end of first sole needle, knit 15 from second sole needle, ssk, knit 1.

Knit six rows.

Fourth decrease row (row 28 from the heel): knit 30 from first needle, knit 1 from sole, k2tog, knit 14 to end of first sole needle, knit 14 from second sole needle, ssk, knit 1.

Knit six rows.

Fifth decrease row (row 35 from the heel): knit 30 from first needle, knit 1 from sole, k2tog, knit 13 to end of first sole needle, knit 13 from second sole needle, ssk, knit 1.

By this time you have made 5x7=35 rows (if you counted correctly, which isn’t always easy :D) and  you need to keep working round and round for about 30 more rows what will lead you to beginning of toe decrease. I like to try on my sock now and then to see how am I coming along and if gauge really provides for desired length so please feel free to add or subtract a few rows as you see fit. If you are knitting a sock for somebody else you need at least length of his/her foot if not 1:1 sketch of foot or sock blockers in desired size so you can check for size.

Toe decrease:

To make neat and decorative  toes use the same trick of making decreases one stitch inward from ends of row. This way there will always be two knit stitches between decreases on sides of your toes. You decrease 4x1 stitch in each decrease row and decrease rows will be every other row.

First decrease row: k1, k2tog, knit 24, ssk, k1 on first needle (upper foot) and the same for sole. If your sole is still equally divided on 2 needles this will be k1, k2tog, k12 for first needle and k12, ssk, k1 for second needle.

Knit one row.

Second decrease row: : k1, k2tog, knit 22, ssk, k1 on first needle (upper foot) and the same for sole. If your sole is still equally divided on 2 needles this will be k1, k2tog, k11 for first needle and k11, ssk, k1 for second needle.

Knit one row:

Third decrease row: : k1, k2tog, knit 20, ssk, k1 on first needle (upper foot) and the same for sole. If your sole is still equally divided on 2 needles this will be k1, k2tog, k10 for first needle and k10, ssk, k1 for second needle.

Knit one row.

Fourth decrease row: : k1, k2tog, knit 18, ssk, k1 on first needle (upper foot) and the same for sole. If your sole is still equally divided on 2 needles this will be k1, k2tog, k9 for first needle and k9, ssk, k1 for second needle.

Knit one row:

Fifth decrease row: : k1, k2tog, knit 16, ssk, k1 on first needle (upper foot) and the same for sole. If your sole is still equally divided on 2 needles this will be k1, k2tog, k8 for first needle and k8, ssk, k1 for second needle.

Knit one row:

Sixth decrease row: : k1, k2tog, knit 14, ssk, k1 on first needle (upper foot) and the same for sole. If your sole is still equally divided on 2 needles this will be k1, k2tog, k7 for first needle and k7, ssk, k1 for second needle.

Knit one row:

Seventh decrease row: : k1, k2tog, knit 12, ssk, k1 on first needle (upper foot) and the same for sole. If your sole is still equally divided on 2 needles this will be k1, k2tog, k6 for first needle and k6, ssk, k1 for second needle.

Knit one row:

Eighth decrease row: : k1, k2tog, knit 10, ssk, k1 on first needle (upper foot) and the same for sole. If your sole is still equally divided on 2 needles this will be k1, k2tog, k5 for first needle and k5, ssk, k1 for second needle.

Knit one row:

Ninth decrease row: : k1, k2tog, knit 8, ssk, k1 on first needle (upper foot) and the same for sole. If your sole is still equally divided on 2 needles this will be k1, k2tog, k4 for first needle and k4, ssk, k1 for second needle.

Now you have 12 stitches on first needle and 12 stitches for sole that you should put on one needle, if not already done. Knit one last row of 12+12 stitches. These you will now join with Kitchener stitch so you will have nice, seamless toe. If you have never worked Kitchener stitch this is excellent project to try it because there are only 12 “columns” to join and since this is the last thing between you and your lovely new footsie you will be extra motivated.

Additionally, after you are done kitchenering, if you are not satisfied with density (invisibility) of this row you can make some extra tightening from the wrong (purl) side before you weave in the end. Row being so small gives you plenty of room to improve your kitchenering and, if you will not be pleased with your work even then, this part is usually hidden in a shoe so you won’t be constantly reminded of this grief :D

And for the end, some sizing suggestions.

Mechanics of the sock making is always the same. For top down sock this means that there will always be cuff, heel, gusset and toes. You can make size adjustments by casting on smaller number of stitches but let it be proportionally smaller for upper foot and sole. So, for instance, for slightly smaller foot you can cast:

 28(upper foot)+38(sole part)=total  or 66 stitches 

26+36= 62 stitches

24+34=58 stitches

or slightly bigger:

32 (upper foot) +42 (sole part) =74 stitches

34+44=78 stitches

... but work with them as described - decreasing for heel until 12 middle stitches remain, have 5 gusset decreases and decrease toes until 12(x2) stitches remain.

For smaller feet you can make gusset decreases every 6th or fifth row and make less rows before starting the toes, and for bigger feet make decreases every 8th or 9th row and/or make more rows before starting the toes.

I always enjoy seeing things other people made while using my patterns so please do share :)